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Champagne-soaked chicken livers: a surprising history and gourmet appeal

chicken liver
Sauteed chicken livers seasoned with tarragon
Christy Hinko

While researching material for the Great Neck Library’s upcoming April 6 centennial celebration of “The Great Gatsby,” I made an intriguing discovery in the 1925 edition of “The Great Neck News.”

In a small section of the weekly publication dedicated to homemakers, a curious blurb described a dish that had captivated partygoers during the Roaring Twenties: chicken livers soaked in Champagne. Princess Helene von Racowitza explained this recipe in her autobiography, and it became an iconic delicacy in high society.

In her memoir, “Princess Helene von Racowitza: An Autobiography,” the princess recounts attending a glamorous gathering where chicken livers soaked in Champagne were served to rave reviews. Guests were so enchanted by the dish that they eagerly sought the secret behind its irresistible flavor. According to Racowitza, the secret was simple: soak the chicken livers in Champagne before cooking them. The dish, she shared, was a hit at the upscale gathering she was attending.

Racowitza shared that the recipe called for soaking the chicken livers in Champagne and then stewing them in a delicate mousse made of asparagus, mushrooms and truffles, seasoned with estragon (tarragon). The result was a dish that combined the rich flavor of the livers with the effervescence and subtle sweetness of Champagne. This technique reflected the broader culinary trend of the time, where alcohol, particularly wine or spirits, was used to elevate the flavors and textures of dishes.

Why Champagne?

Soaking chicken livers in Champagne—or any alcohol—is a common practice in gourmet cooking. The alcohol helps tenderize the meat by breaking down its proteins, making the livers more tender. Champagne, with its acidity and slight sweetness, balances the richness of the liver, softening its sometimes gamey taste. The yeast and mineral notes of Champagne also add complexity, turning the dish into a refined culinary experience.

In addition to tenderizing, Champagne’s fruity and slightly acidic notes enhance the liver’s flavor, mellowing its natural richness and adding a subtle depth. The Champagne’s effervescence contributes to the dish’s complexity, creating a harmonious balance between the liver’s rich, earthy flavor and the wine’s fresh, bright qualities. This technique is often used in gourmet recipes like pâtés and terrines, making the humble chicken liver a luxurious ingredient.

A Nutritional Powerhouse

Despite its luxurious reputation, chicken liver is packed with nutrition. It is an excellent source of high-quality protein, which plays a vital role in muscle growth, repair and overall bodily functions. Additionally, chicken livers are rich in heme iron, a form of iron that is easily absorbed by the body, helping to combat iron-deficiency anemia. This condition can cause fatigue and weakness.

chicken liver
The small newspaper blurb from a 1925 edition of “Great Neck News” about soaking chicken livers in ChampagneChristy Hinko

Chicken livers are also packed with vitamin A, which supports vision, skin health and immune function. They provide a significant amount of B vitamins, particularly B12, essential for energy production and nerve health. The high folate content in chicken livers also supports cell growth and development, making them an invaluable addition to a balanced diet.

Versatile Culinary Uses

While soaking chicken livers in Champagne may be extravagant, there are many other ways to enjoy this nutrient-rich ingredient. One of the most popular preparations is chicken liver pâté. To make pâté, sauté chicken livers with onions, garlic, and herbs, then blend the mixture with butter and a splash of brandy or cognac for a smooth, creamy texture. After chilling, this pâté can be served with crusty bread or crackers, making it a perfect appetizer for gatherings.

Another beloved preparation is sautéing chicken livers. Simply heat olive oil or butter in a pan and sauté the livers until they’re browned on the outside but still tender inside. Add garlic, onions, and a splash of balsamic vinegar or wine for additional flavor. Garnish with fresh herbs for an easy yet flavorful dish that highlights the livers’ natural richness.

The Legacy of Princess Helene von Racowitza

Princess Helene von Racowitza lived a remarkable life, marked by romantic entanglements, travels and intellectual pursuits. A German actress and writer, she became widely known for her autobiography, which offered insights into her adventurous life and complex relationships. Racowitza’s legacy is a fascinating reflection of the challenges and triumphs of women during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

The Champagne-soaked chicken liver recipe embodies the glamour and sophistication of the Roaring Twenties, reminding us of a time when such refined dishes were considered the height of elegance. The recipe inspires chefs and home cooks alike, encouraging them to explore the luxurious flavors and textures of chicken livers in new and exciting ways.

Chicken livers, often overlooked in modern cooking, are a flavorful and nutritious ingredient. Whether soaked in Champagne, blended into pâté or sautéed to perfection, they offer a unique culinary experience that combines history, luxury and practicality. For those seeking to recreate the glamour of the Roaring Twenties or simply enjoy a hearty, flavorful dish, chicken livers are a versatile ingredient worth exploring.